Ru Ji Kitchen - Bib Gourmand Fishball Noodles

At a time when most fishball noodle stalls rely on factory-supplied balls that taste much the same from one stall to the next, Ru Ji Kitchen is one of the few in Singapore still making its own from scratch each day. The fishballs are made entirely from yellowtail fish, known locally as sweet potato fish, with no added flour. The Ng family began in the trade at Ghim Moh Food Centre before setting up on their own at Holland Drive, where the stall later earned a place in the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand selection and was invited to represent Singapore at Singapore Day 2012 in New York. The Holland Drive operation runs as two adjoining stalls, one serving the fishball noodles and the other bak chor mee, and it is here that the kitchen’s handmade work is most visible.

Fishball Noodle (Dry) — $4 / $5

The dry version is built around mee pok or mee kia, tossed in a base of soy sauce, vinegar, sambal chili and crisp pork lard, then finished with chopped spring onions. The noodles are cooked just short of soft, holding an al dente spring rather than turning starchy or clumping. The chili carries a distinct vinegar tang that builds in heat as the meal goes on, and diners who prefer a milder plate can ask for less chili. The handmade fishballs and fishcake come with the bowl, with a separate portion of clear soup served on the side.

Fishball Noodle (Soup) — $4 / $5

The soup version places the same fishballs and fishcake in a light, clear broth that carries the clean taste of fresh fish rather than a heavy stock. Much of its savoury depth comes from preserved radish, or cai poh, which is simmered into the broth and gives it a gentle salted edge. The result is a restrained bowl that lets the fishballs sit at the centre, and it pairs naturally with the chili served alongside for those who want to lift the flavour.

Handmade Fishballs

The fishballs are the reason the stall is known. They are made from one hundred percent yellowtail fish with no flour, the flesh scraped and minced before being pounded into a smooth paste over roughly an hour, then thrown and slapped by hand to build the bounce. The handmade method shows in the shape: the balls come out unevenly sized and never perfectly round, the opposite of the uniform factory product. The texture is tender with a light spring rather than a hard, rubbery bounce, and the flavour leans gently sweet and savoury. Because the fish is a natural product, the taste shifts slightly from day to day. Regulars also buy the fishballs by the portion to cook at home, particularly for steamboat.

Fishcake

The fishcake is made from the same yellowtail paste, formed and fried so that the outer skin firms up before it is sliced. That fried surface gives the edges of each slice a firmer chew against the softer centre, setting up a contrast of textures within a single piece. It is served as part of the standard bowl and can also be ordered as a separate portion.

Meatballs (Minced Pork Balls) — 2 for $1

Alongside the fishballs, the kitchen makes its own minced pork meatballs, which are not included in the default bowl but can be added as a top-up. They are larger and more substantial than the fishballs, with a tender bite, and like the fishballs they are commonly bought in portions for home steamboat. The meatballs are the usual recommendation for anyone wanting to round out a bowl with something meatier.

Bak Chor Mee

The second of the two adjoining stalls, opened more recently, serves bak chor mee built on minced pork. It draws on the same tangy sambal chili, vinegar and pork lard base that defines the dry fishball noodle, with the pork taking the lead in place of the fishballs. For diners who want both, the two stalls run their own queues side by side, so an order from each can be collected at the same visit.

Ru Ji Kitchen remains one of a shrinking number of stalls willing to do the slow, manual work of making fishballs by hand each day, and the difference is clear in both texture and flavour. The Holland Drive branch, with its Bib Gourmand listing and twin-stall setup, is the place to see the operation at its fullest. For anyone tracing the older craft of Singapore fishball noodles, it is worth the queue.

Address: Holland Drive Market & Food Centre, 44 Holland Drive, #02-28/29, Singapore 270044
Opening Hours: 7am – 1pm (Tue – Sun), Closed Mon
Tel: +65 9435 0820
Other outlets: Old Airport Road Food Centre (#01-37), Maxwell Food Centre, and Tam Chiak Kopitiam (Hougang)